Alfred Wrainwright is a bit of an odd-ball; he is opinionated and sour on occasion and sometimes is filled with a complete childish glee. It's pleasure to follow his journey from Settle to Hadrian's Wall and back again. It is such an enjoyable read partly because Wainwright is obviously writing for himself. He tells us that, for him, half the enjoyment of a walking holiday is planing it and looking forward to it, and then looking back, retracing his route and reminiscing. It's clear that the writing of the book sustained him through a winter in his dull home/work routine. It is honest and genuine.
The subtitle of the book is
The Story of a Long Walk in 1938. The sense you get of England at that time is extraordinary. At the beginning of the book, in September 1938 the country is preparing for war and awaiting the result of Chamberlain's visit to Germany. The result comes back all clear - no war and everyone is relieved. Wainwright's last paragraph, as he sits down on the train home reads:
"My truancy was over. I was a deserter going back, with a feeling of guilt. But the great thing was that there was not going to be a war. I would not have to be a soldier, which I would have hated. Life would be normal again. I would return to the comfortable rut I had fashioned for myself. Good!"
It's quite odd to read this knowing what we know now. The other strange thing is the way Wainwright finds accommodation each night. He knocks on doors and asks to be taken in. He pays for his food and board, but there are no B&Bs, no signs. There is the occasional inn, but mostly he asks around in a village (often late at night after walking 20 miles or so) for a meal and a bed.
I thoroughly recommend this, it is a curiosity but Wainwright is a brilliant writer. His descriptions, sense of joy and character make it easy to see why his Lakeland books are so treasured.
